The year is 1993. The grunge movement is gaining momentum, with Nirvana and Sonic Youth on MTV; Juergen Teller is redefining fashion photography with every grainy, punched-up picture of heroin-chic ‘it’ girls, Kate Moss, Tyra Banks, and Courtney Love. At the same time, Marc Jacobs is at the head of womenswear at Perry Ellis. Seeing this cultural shift, he decides to embrace the death of 80’s glamour with a little bit of 90’s distress.
Jacobs sends models down the runway donning knitted skull caps, floral granny dresses, plaid flannels, and Dr. Martens. The “ghastly” line caused him to lose his job at Perry Ellis, and kickstart his career as a creative director and designer.
Flash forward to today. As political and social tensions rise, society’s obsession with nostalgia is unwavering. Celebrating its 25th anniversary, Jacobs decides to reissue the iconic collection that marked a huge turning point for the grunge movement and the fashion industry for decades to come.
The capsule collection is named ‘Redux Grunge Collection 1993/2018’, and consists of 26 looks the original collection, with prices ranging from $35 to $1,200. The collection’s campaign is quite fittingly shot by Juergen Teller. It features diverse models such as Gigi Hadid, Slick Woods, Dree Hemingway, and many more.
“The world need grunge now more than ever. Authenticity, acceptance, freedom, tolerance… The ironic, the perverse, the celebration of the everyday and the extraordinary,” Jacobs boldly states on his website in huge, clean white letters against a plain black background. However, one cannot help but question the irony of the statement and its delivery…
Does Jacobs offer too clean a perception of the 90’s, when, as Cathy Horyn pointed out, grunge literally stood as, “an anathema to fashion”? Is what was once considered edgy in 1993, considered bland in 2018? And, of course, will the line bring in a younger clientele, willing to embrace his “edge”?