In Fall 2018, to the sadness of Philophiles everywhere, Phoebe Philo stepped down as Creative Director of Celine. When Hedi Slimane (previously at Saint Laurent) was announced as the new Creative Director, it was clear that big changes were imminent. Firstly, the accent aigu above the ‘e’ was dropped from the brand name to create a sense of “balance” in the logo. If that wasn’t enough to enrage Philophiles, then Slimane’s Spring / Summer 2019 debut was. A far cry from Philo’s sophisticated, minimalist, modern aesthetic, critics were outraged, and dubbed Slimane’s new Celine a lazy reiteration of his work at Saint Laurent. Philophiles immediately took to social media to express their dismay. An Instagram account entitled, @oldceline, (which now has over 200k followers), was formed, and posts archival Celine photos for fans to reminisce over.
Following the outrage regarding new Celine, Slimane decided to give fashion onlookers what they wanted- old Celine. However, he decided to go back in time to before Philo and LVMH transformed the brand- something we will dub, ‘old, old Celine’. In a 59 look collection, models walked down the runway clad in aviator glasses, and dressed in bourgeois French silhouettes, with a heavy dose of 70’s nostalgia. The line consisted of pleated midi skirts, print dresses, chic blouses and silk scarves, paired with leather over-the-knee boots. It also featured strong outerwear pieces, ranging from capes and fur coats to bomber jackets.
Philophiles can indeed appreciate that Slimane opted to look into Celine’s roots, without implicating trends or his own personal aesthetic. Slimane has once again disrupted the fashion industry, and we are avidly awaiting his next move for the brand.